(It was one of the first juices, or perfumes, to be almost as clear as fresh water in colour, too.) Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oudh is becoming hard to source. ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. GuerlainAqua Allegoria Bouquet de Mai Ditto fragrance: it delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled. Balmain Ivoire This spice has been in use for thousands of years: Pliny described an unguent of fenugreek, and the roots were also used in early Arab perfumery. 9 Sag Harbour The availability of this synthetic ingredient has probably helped to shape the trend for aquatic fragrances, as well as for fruity-florals. Because as with that spirit the juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to fragrances. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. An annual-flowering member of the borage family, also known as cherry pie flower, youll often find Heliotropium arborescens on sale in nurseries and garden centres for summer bedding (and you can create a wonderfully scented display with the plants, which butterflies will also love). It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. So why does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a fragrance ingredient? Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. ChloEau de Parfum Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur It brings out the flavors of ginger, onions, adds warmth to the cocktail of exotic flavors from clove, pepper, cumin, fenugreek. Salts a flavour. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell ), Calvin Klein Contradiction Burberry Weekend for Women Clinique Happy LAritsan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) Strictly, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla. Burberry Weekend for Women Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. The sweetness of the violets deep blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of heaven, Seems colord by its skies, wrote Byron. Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). Calvin Klein Eternity (And conservationists.) Its generally the (antiseptic) essential oil from the leathery, knobbly rind of citron which makes its way into zesty Colognes and as a richly fragrant top note in some perfumes, adding a dry citrus edge. 'A fantastically juicy, tart citrus note,' explained perfumerJulie Mass toThe Perfume Society. Boadicea the Victorious Warrioress Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female perfumes, though more widely in so-called mens scents. One of summers favourite berries, strawberrys turned up in a fruitbowl of scents in recent years, riding on a wave of fruity-floral popularity sometimes paired with exotic white flowers like ylang-ylang, lily or jasmine, or in gourmand creations alongside caramel and cinnamon. Memo Manoa The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. With its hints of plum and peach, and a touch of lush green, mangos often to be found alongside floral notes in the fruity-floral compositions which have become so popular in recent years. . Escada Escada Savvy perfumers know exactly which to use to get their desired effect, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Paco Rabanne Lady Million. Dior Miss Dior Chrie Strangelove deadofnight Mandarinworks nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment'. Diptyque LEau de Neroli Gardeners cultivate these widely, albeit most successfully inside fruit cages because birds, as well as humans, just love the perfectly-ripened fruit The distilled absolute of the blackcurrant buds and leaves is known as bourgeons de cassis (say it boor-shon da cassee): a light, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge. Penhaligon's Blasted Bloom Serge Lutens Chne. Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose Its one of those Marmite perfumery ingredients, which people either swoon over or clutch their pearls and scream while avoiding at all costs. ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir But how does it smell? Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Burberry The Beat Occasionally, Myrrh has a smoky and syrupy character. 1. 9 High Line In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin, hence the two names), after deliberately damaging the bark. L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! We love what the nose Christine Nagel has to say about this ingredient: 'Honey has two facets - half devil, half angel. Creed Impriale Millesime We know only that styrene might be an ingredient in any given fragrance because the International Fragrance Association, an industry trade group, publishes an online " Transparency List " of ingredients that perfumers say they use in formulas for consumer products. Clive Christian no.1 (price- $2150 per oz) Channel grand extrait ($4200 per oz) Shalini Perfume (2.2 oz bottle $900) Chanel No. (Especially now fruity-florals are so popular in our fragrance wardrobes: blueberries work really well to enhance floral perfumes.) But as the stories behind fragrance ingredients go, they surely dont come much more romantic than that, Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Rosemary wasnt known to the Arab perfumers, but it started to be distilled as an oil in the 15th Century, and was a key ingredient in one of the first modern perfumes, Hungary Water. Burberry Body So why use tolu at all? Guerlain Tonka Impriale Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel, It sounds synthetic. Penhaligons Eau de Cologne (Its also used in vermouth.) Herms 24 Faubourg Just sometimes, a fragrance is described as being indolic - which is pretty unhelpful if you dont work in the perfume world. Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Citrus aurantifolia is native to India, where limes used in Tantric rituals to ward off evil spirits from the body. How cool is that? It goes especially well with musks, fruits and flowers. 'Virginian cedar has a dry and almost "nervous" effect in a fragrance, whereas cedar wood from the Atlas Mountains is much warmer'. It all began in Ancient Egypt, where incense was first created using precious gums and resins from trees, imported from the Arabian coast and Somalia. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger, A hugely precious ingredient, this with a heart-stopping price-tag. Elie Saab Le Parfum Goutal Eau du Sud Creed White Flowers Eugenol is the main element in clove essential oil and also found in other plants, including allspice, bay, cinnamon leaf, patchouli and pimento. Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. (Its sometimes spelled opopanax, too, with an a.). The hybrid Dutch lavender, or Lavandula intermedia, produces an oil called lavandin, with a sharper and more medicinal odour. Youll get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, from this fruit of Heaven as its known. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. DedCool Fragrance 03 Blonde: Black Violet/Saffron. It is a skill not many brands have managed to perfect, but Jo Malone has nailed it. Clinique Aromatics Elixir In one camp is natural perfume purveyors that steer completely clear of . "It has a delicate, elegant, radiant, and floral character, reminiscent of jasmine with citrus freshness, and blends well with all kinds of perfumes. The hairy-skinned green or red fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly fruity-florals. Frederic Malle En Passant Ever. Adding a nutty quality, actually: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like. Dermal sensitizer and allergen. Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. Cartier Les Heures Voyageuses Oud & Menthe Both are lovely, but the poodle mostly just hops and jumps. Nymphea odorata is the scented variety, and the one were interested in for fragrant purposes though other types have a use in traditional herbal medicine: for hair loss, skin diseases, headache and palpitations. Yardley April Violets. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Floris Malmaison "Sandalwood is an extraordinary wood with a deliciously creamy, milky scent, almost buttery, with the strength of a vertical and dense wood," says Michalon-Bertier. By Kilian Incense Oud ), Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar; the very best quality of vanilla comes from the le Bourbon, now known as Runion. Aldehyde C10 decanal powerfully conjures up orange rind. And there's whale fecal matter involved in this musky scent. offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. Since ancient times, the opium poppy has been regarded as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, with healing powers. The galbanum plant produces the gum resin asafoetida, used in Indian cooking (as well as perfumery), which you can read about here. Maison Francis Kurkdjian la rose Diptyque Tam Dao In some hot places, vetiver is woven into blinds and matting, which are not only wonderfully fragrant as the breeze wafts through them or theyre trodden underfoot: vetiver has cooling properties. Amouage Ciel Pour Femme ), FreshCannabis Rose Are you a honey-lover? Jovoy La Liturgie des Heures Atelier Cologne Ambre Nu Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. And jasmine. Those of a certain age will be most familiar with edelweiss as the name of a song crooned by Christopher Plummer in the movie of The Sound of Music. Smelled neat (weve tried it: really not a good idea), it whiffs intensely of birch tar and leather; only when expertly blended does it soften and seduce, blending well with rose and oud in particular, and acting as an excellent fixative for other notes. Heliotropes teamed with violets and iris for a talcum-powdery, lipstick-esque sweetness but as you may now have guessed, its actually very versatile, becoming almost mouthwatering when used alongside bitter almond, each ingredient turbo-charging the others marzipan-ish qualities. Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. Fendi Palazzo Miller Harris Fleur de Sel. But smell carefully and you might pick up hints of pink jasmine or even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones. Amouage Interlude. Natural musk is also one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. Pears themselves are a fruit-bowl staple today (though only really satisfying when truly in season, wed say). Gucci Guilty Intense Goutal Paris Eau du Sud Learn about our 4 - step product safety process. Almost spicy, so green and sweet, with hints of lemon: thats lily of the valley and a more spring-like scent its hard to imagine. Lanvin Jeanne Lanvin Chanel Cristalle Fougre means fern-like, in French, and the category grew from the launch of Houbigants Fougre Royale, in 1882. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from the LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum augustifolium. But in the hands of a gifted perfumer? We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. (Just like in baking.) ". Chopard Casmir Robert Piguet Fracas But not any more: this seriously exotic, intense, rich fragrance note is at the top of the price scale for ingredients though even so, its still present in as much as 40% of quality perfume creations. On a blotter, meanwhile, a single drop of patchouli can last for months. Donna Karan DKNY And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. Seeds: Seeds are common features in the world of perfume making, and the most common ones include: anise, nutmeg, tonka beans, coriander, cocoa, carrot seed, cardamom, and the rest. Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. "It is one of a handful of animal-derived ingredients and comes from sperm whales who excrete the waxy substance when they have been eating cuttlefish," he says. Goutal Quel Amour! The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Watch out for peach blossom becoming a more popular perfume ingredient, as the influence of the Middle East which has made for so many heady perfumes in recent years moves East, in response to the dawning love of fragrance among the Chinese. Goutal Eau dHadrien, Pink pepper is now a hot perfume ingredient (in several senses): bright, cheerful, with a woody-rosy scent thats quite different to the nose-tingling spicy warmth of the more-familiar black pepper. Some hay fever sufferers, maybe but most of us just love the fresh, green scent of grass. (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). By Kilian Cruel Intentions Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for me. Caudalie Zeste de Vigne Personally, we prefer to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery. Absolutely. Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. "The appeal of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the plant. Guerlain Shalimar The lasting power is 10 - 12 hours with great projection. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Memo Shams 'The first association, when you tell me "leather", honestly, is "Swiss Army" and me serving there as soldier: mygeneration had the privilege of serving in thick leather shows that were made to endure a Swiss invasion of Moscow, including the way back. Prada Infusion dIris Captured in a bottle, wisterias as lush and beautiful as when it scampers up the outside of a house or over a pergola, garlanding them with multi-flowered, hanging racemes. There are two types of civet: one African (its habitat spans Ethiopia through to South Africa), and Indian, native to Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. Este Lauder Pleasures When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. Este Lauder Beautiful The word geraniol may be written there, as this is one of the perfume ingredients known to trigger sensitivity, in some people so its there as a warning. And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent? It is both immediately recognizable and versatile.. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. 5. Revlon Charlie Silver We've also discontinued plastic samples, so you can feel good about smelling good. Dior Hypnotic Poison Gucci Guilty 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. Dior Poison Evody Ambre Intense She wanted to show her gratitude with a gift, and soaked apricot kernels in brandy, presenting the concoction to Luini. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal Dior Hypnotic Poison Its been used in scent-making almost forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot. This product of the galbanum plant is used as a top note, instead and some very famous fragrances (see below) get their character from this VIP perfume ingredient most notably Chanels No. Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Paula The attar of roses which is produced is powerful and expensive and no wonder: it takes around 40,000 rose flowers to produce one 10 g bottle of rose attar. ), Goutal Quel Amour Botanically, dills known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the Med, and southern Russia. The brand establishes a relationship of confidence with producers . It has an animalic quality, and is warm, a little powdery and decidedly erotic. Bulgari Mon Jasmin Noir LEau Exquise Why allspice? Of course it smells woody, but thats just too simple: it also has a freshness, with hints of resin. So although honeysuckles dried flowers are used in sachets and pot pourri, its mostly a synthetic version youll encounter twining its way through perfume compositions. And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? By Kilian Beyond Love Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. The waxy flowers of this tender twining shrub also known as Madagascar Jasmine or Creeping Tuberose are traditionally used in wedding bouquets and headdresses: romantic, sweet, and (yes) a little like tuberose and jasmine. Thierry Mugler Womanity LArtisan Parfumeur Fleur dOranger Guerlain Mitsouko Browse this list for ingredients that you may not have realized are right on your neighborhood grocery shelf! LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 4 Creed Jasmal Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. Through our longstanding contacts in the world of perfume perfumers, bottle designers, brand creators, the fashion designers who have their names on some of the worlds bestselling scents we have our finger on the pulse-point of everything thats happening and we are delighted to share it with you here. When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up and Chanels perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. The bitter orange tree Citrus aurantium var. Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. Aldehydes may be found in natural materials rose, citronella, cinnamon bark and orange rind, for instance but are also a family of synthetic chemicals, formed (heres the science bit) by the partial oxidation of primary alcohols. All that, and a wonderful aromatic smell, too, Goutal Mandragore Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Toit. (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) Thyme gets its name from the Greek word meaning to fumingate and its fragrant use goes back that far: the Greeks used it as a powerful incense in their temples (it was even thought to repel snakes), while the Arab perfumers also used it in their recipes. Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud ', Goutal Paris Eau de Lavande Its a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran almost melts into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families. Are you a honey-lover spelled opopanax, too, Goutal Quel Amour,. Quality, and seriously expensive, and a wonderful aromatic smell, too, Quel. 'When you smell it, you can perfume ingredients by brand good about smelling good maybe a hint of caramel, from fruit... 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Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for...., fries andburger good about smelling good for me to use to their., is a little powdery and decidedly erotic and a touch fruity guaiac wood for!, a little like lily lite linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her counterpart! The smell, either: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like season, wed say ) an air of....

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